Feel free to drag it all the way left, though watch your pano carefully. Next, drag the Boundary Warp slider rightward and watch as Camera Raw corrects the distortion around the edges of the pano. If it’s got a lot of lines in it (say, it’s an architectural shot), try Perspective. If it’s a 360-degree or multi-row pano (say, if you took two rows of photos), try Spherical.
It’s worth taking each method for a spin, though if your pano is really wide (and the example is), Adobe suggests using Cylindrical. In the Panorama Merge Preview window, turn off Auto Crop and then pick the layout method you want Camera Raw to use for stitching. Pop into Camera Raw’s Lens Corrections panel, turn on Enable Profile Corrections and then use the menus that appear to pick lens manufacturer and the closest lens to the one you used. Since you may get a better result with those corrections, click Cancel. If it isn’t, you get a dialog that lets you cancel or continue without profile corrections. If the lens is in its database, the Panorama Merge Preview window opens. Camera Raw automatically tries to figure out what lens you took the picture with so it can correct distortion problems. Click the panel’s microscopic fly-out menu (circled here) and choose Merge to Panorama. In the Camera Raw window that opens, press Command-A to select all the images in the Filmstrip at left. Right-click one of them and choose Open in Camera Raw.īridge makes it easy to open files in Camera Raw, including JPEGs and TIFFs. If not, fire up Adobe Bridge and select the soon-to-be-stitched together photos. If the images are already open in Camera Raw, great.
Because some localized edits won’t make it into the pano, you may as well wait and adjust the pano itself. Gather the images you want to stitch together, but don’t bother adjusting them yet. Photoshop also lacks the easy-to-use adjustments sliders in Camera Raw to get at them, you have to open the pano in the Camera Raw filter so you may as well use Camera Raw to begin with. Photoshop doesn’t have a Boundary Warp slider either, though its Photomerge dialog does have a Content-Aware Fill option that can fix empty spots. (If you’ve got Lightroom, stitch your panos there Lightroom CC 6.4 and later includes a Boundary Warp slider, too!)Īlthough you could use Photoshop’s Photomerge command to create a pano, the end result is pixel-based. And of course, Camera Raw has all those wonderful slider-based controls for adjusting exposure, contrast, highlights, shadows, etc. Heck, in the dark old ages of 2015, you had to use Photoshop’s Content-Aware Fill command to avoid cropping. This slider drastically reduces the need to crop empty areas from the pano due to the distortion voodoo involved in aligning the images. In version 9.4, Adobe included another mission critical feature for your pano pleasure: Boundary Warp. This lets you keep all glorious data included in the individual raw files, which you need for adjusting tone and color. In version 9.0, it began stitching raw files into a panorama that’s also in raw format (DNG) in lieu of rendering the pano into pixels. (For the curious, the steps are nearly identical for creating a pano in Lightroom.) Why you should use Camera RawĬamera Raw has made some serious technological advances in recent versions. When such misfortune strikes, all is not lost you can take several overlapping shots and then merge them into a panorama using Adobe Photoshop’s Camera Raw plug-in, which comes with Photoshop. One of the caveats of being a photographer is that you may not be equipped with a lens that’s wide enough to capture the scene you want.
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